The Cut : The Best Chefs in D-FW — The Dallas Morning News
The 2013 Chef of the Year shows no sign of letting up; his Modern American cooking is every bit as exciting as it has been since his restaurant earned five stars a year ago. Matt McCallister’s daring a la carte menu changes constantly; if you’re unsure what to order, ask for the off-menu five-course tasting ($75 per person) and let the chef choose for you. Or for even more of an adventure, reserve on a Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday and request the nine-course tasting menu ($95 per person) when you book. Recently it was a brilliant study of in-the-moment seasonality. Highlights included roasted delicata squash filled with bone marrow custard and dressed up with toasted delicata seeds, aged balsamico and purple endive, and 120-day dry-aged, grass-fed beef accompanied by a wildly good choron — béarnaise sauce boosted with tomato. McCallister used fermented tomato, which gave it a crazy funk that worked beautifully with the beef, and he aerated it, for a mousse-like texture that made it almost counter intuitively elegant. It transcended its status as a sauce.
by LESLIE BRENNER