Some people call it sibling rivalry. Others say that Houstonians are jealous that Dallas is thought of as wealthy and sophisticated, while we have more of a gritty, urban reputation. Maybe it’s because Dallas always seems to get national attention for good things, while we end up on lists for crime and such. Whatever the reason, we Houstonians love to hate Dallas.
So when I told my local friends I was taking a weekend trip to Dallas to see what the city had to offer, food-wise, they scoffed. Why would anyone leave the dining mecca that is the Bayou City for the cultural wasteland of the Big D? I wondered this too on the drive up there, Iggy Azalea playing too loud on the radio and the sun tanning only my right arm as I sat in the passenger seat. What could Dallas have to offer that’s better than Oxheart or Chinatown or Killen’s BBQ?
Along with Fluff Bake Bar chef Rebecca Masson, I’d been invited to dine at FT33, the restaurant helmed by recent James Beard Award semifinalist Matt McCallister, known for his foraging tendencies and modern, seasonal dishes. He was also recently named a Food & Wine best new chef, and FT33–an abbreviation of “fire table 33,” the chef’s table–is consistently at the top of lists of best restaurants in Dallas.
But enough about the restaurant’s and McCallister’s local and national accolades. I’m a Houstonian. I ate at a restaurant in Dallas. And in spite of any nebulous urban rivalries, I loved it more than I’ve loved any food in quite some time. Here’s why.
by KAITLIN STEINBERG
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