Restaurant review: At FT33, Matt McCallister takes diners on a wild, wonderful ride
Dive into a short stack of uni pancakes and prepare to be transported. Tender and velvety, suffused with the extravagant flavor of the best sea urchin roe and a touch of chive, they’re layered with more uni — perfect lobes, cool and wet, with oceanic flavor that whooshes through the dish. It’s fabulous, and even more extraordinary when pulled through the sauces on the plate — a creamy emulsion flavored gently with dried bonito and a tangy, bright, fruity sauce alive with Japanese chiles. Wow.
The uni pancakes alone are enough to put Matt McCallister on a short list of the city’s most talented and exciting chefs.